Tag Archives: Orsara di Puglia

On the Edge of an Italian Town

I tell time by the church bells, reminding me of where I am in the day, as I no longer worry about getting lost in time, or in the space that surrounds me.  I walk to the edge of Orsara, where “up the hill” is Orsara, and “down the hill” is not.  So I walk downhill until I am tired, then judge how much I must save for the walk back up the mountain.  “hai camminato da Orsara?” or something like that, is said to me with concern.  I judge that this is not common.  I hear cars approaching behind blind curves.  I cross back and forth to safety.  A road sign warns of slow tractors on the hill ahead, but it doesn’t warn about me.  Between passing cars, I study the moss on the trees, the wild edible greens along the road.  The flavorful weeds.  I marvel at the borage, in full bloom in a drainage ditch.

I listen to the water rushing somewhere near, then the wind that drives the turbines, blowing in powerful surges.  Everything is growing, including the stones.  In a moment of fatigue, I contemplate the amount of life along the expanses of freshly turned soil.  The dark earth smells of rain.  I step onto the shoulder of the road, and my shoes sink in.  The earth holds every drop.

Animals run toward me, greeting me with nervous excitement.  A kitten flirts with big green eyes, and an inner motor so strong that it nearly makes him stumble.  I pick him up and judge that he is well fed, a little belly silhouetted by the sun’s rays.   I pass the orchards, and vineyards, and small piles of spent grapes.  Olive trees that defy pruning, and chili peppers that grow just beyond the wooden gate.

Today, I look for the quiet stones, the stones moved from the fields.  The ancient ones that were once here where the plows have churned the soil.  They were carried to the edges, by men, wagons, and donkeys.  Stoic now, in small pillars. Monuments to time.

Orsara di Puglia: A Culinary Adventure

I have again returned to this place, in the rolling Southern mountains of Italy.  This mix of medieval and modern, tradition and change.  Surrounded by wind turbines, but grounded in stone.  My culinary adventure is quiet, and makes me content.  Entire days and nights have been spent before plates of food.  Nine courses can be the norm.

I walk most days, in quiet contemplation verging on exhaustion.  The village is comprised of rolling hills and alleys of stone.  Narrow, cool and quiet, surrounded by stone on three sides, sometimes four.  The 20% grade on the local hills will burn those calories away, making the long evening meal well earned.

Days and Nights in Orsara

In a room in Antwerp, in the diamond district, writing about the past. The nights have turned cold enough to see my breath, as I reflect on the days behind me.  In the chaos of travel, I change languages every few hours.  My mind is exhausted, and does not reset to the new country, the new friend, the change in language.  I am a country, and a language behind.  Speaking in French, Italian, or German to the Flemish Belgians who would rather I just spoke in English.  I walk so to clear my mind, and get some thoughts down on paper. I walk until I am tired, then write until my eyes close.

How do you summarize the days behind, when each one was so rich.  New people, ideas, patterns.  Landcapes flash before my eyes in memory, like scenes from the train window. I try to focus on one hour, of one day, in one place.  My heart remained in Puglia, even though the rest of me went to Germany. I just wanted to stay, to press my hands and face against the cold stone that makes the place. It felt like an ancestral connection, like the stones of Inis Mein.  In Orsara, homes, and walls, and footpaths are quietly reabsorbed by nature. A farmer’s efforts temporarily reclaim man’s order, but when Spring arrives, vines and trees will again crawl through stone, claiming victory.

At night, while others slept, I walked into the night to watch the moon, as the twinkling festival lights in the village shown in blue arches upon stone. I would stay until I shivered, then stay some more.  A wild dog greeted me as if it knew me, as if I was returning home. It would sit as I gently pet it’s face in the quiet of the night.  I remember Clinton the sheepdog on the Aran Islands, as he followed me upon my return to that place. The locals peered from stone framed windows, and green painted doors, wondering why this dog seemed to be mine.  It is a mysterious thing, why animals react as they do.  Do they see something that is beyond our sight? Do they know that we want to love them if given the chance? As I prepared to leave Orsara, the gardener stopped before me with mouth agape, as I pet the wild dog beneath the rain.

I get comfortably lost in quiet.  Though my days are spent struggling to speak, to convey my ideas in another language, and at times, in any language. I’d rather simply look, or stare with admiration, and breathe it all in.  Sometimes, the other senses take over in a tumbling labyrinth of scent, sight, and touch.  I turn down the volume until someone asks for a response. At times, I am guilty of just watching the Italians lips move, of watching language form beneath their dark eyes, with words bubbling like prosecco. So what do you do with this sweet place where a chestnut horse breathed you in, and geese sneak sweet grass out of your fingertips through the gap in the fence? Where hours were spent contemplating cheese, and nights seemed to go on for days.  Where language flooded you like a song whose words you didn’t quite know, yet it nearly makes you cry.

 

 

 

 

Zucca Zucca Zucca

Simply put, la zucca is pumpkin, in Italian. It is the word that I have used the most in the past weeks. I have chopped them, searched for them, harvested, them and dined on them in nearly every corner of Italy, but there is still more.  There are still fairs to attend, restaurants to dine in, and seeds to explore.  I have been a bit lost in a flurry of action, as festivals run back-to-back.  The connection to the people of Italy is so immediate.  I show a photo, I note that I am a producer of pumpkins, and it seems that hearts open up. they forgive my “bad Italian” because I speak the ultimate Italian:  farming.  The production of food is more important than language.

Every village seems to have them in the shops, every Airbnb in which I stay has one on the kitchen counter.  This wonderfully simple vegetable is loved here in Italy.

I have crossed from Slow Food Terra Madre in Turin, to Florence, to Mondovi, to Alba, to Lecce, Orsara di Puglia, Naples, then launched north to Germany. I tour festivals and fields, corner markets, and kitchen counter tops.  Seeds fill my pockets, squash fills my stomach, and I sleep well at night.  In the weeks ahead, I will be sharing my journey with you, one zucca at a time.